John Carruthers’ Chicago Tavern-style Pizza Sauce

I love tomatoes. I grow baskets of my own heritage varieties every single year. I sometimes partake in those locally confident pizza sauce recipes that essentially have you blend some fresh (or good canned) tomatoes with a whisper of herbs and an afterthought of salt. But to make a true tavern-style tomato sauce, you’ve really got to forget everything that the Food Network revolution taught you and bring your inner Hellraiser to the fore. 

Cook the bastard out of this. Make the ingredients loud. Add more if you like. Hit balance by adding more. And if that’s too much, add more of the complementary ingredient to lasso things back into balance. This is a sauce of wild haymakers to the palate, not a PBS demo on farm-to-table cooking. Cook for umami and taste for acid balance. Your guests will lose their minds. You can’t quality control mozzarella or Parmesan, but you can damn sure make sure people never forget your pizza sauce. 

John Carruthers’ Chicago Tavern-style Pizza Sauce

Note

While not traditional to tavern-style pizza or other styles, John likes to add fish sauce and Marmite – a savoury spread made from yeast extract – for an extra hit of umami and salt, though both are optional. This Chicago tavern-style pizza sauce goes best with a tavern-style pizza. And if you want to know more about the style, John has plenty to say about its history and importance. 


1. Heat the oil and butter over low to medium heat in a larger-than-you-think-you-need saucepan.

Nobody needs to clean the range again. Add the garlic and cook, tossing frequently, until just starting to take on colour, about 5 minutes. If you walk away and burn it, there’s no saving it, so just start over. I know this because we all make mistakes, and I’m not being judgy. 

2. Add the tomato paste and spread it out with a heatproof spatula or spoon.

I like to nestle the garlic on top of the paste and let it chill while it darkens.

3. Once the tomato paste is visibly darker (about 5 minutes) add the tomatoes and juice (from the can), fish sauce, Marmite, and red wine vinegar.

Stir together.

4. Bring to a simmer and add the sugar, salt and herbs.

Cook at the very barest simmer, stirring every now and then, for 45 minutes or until the tomatoes present no resistance when you stir.

5. Blend the sauce with a stick blender or food processor and taste.

With a live-fire environment like the Ooni, I like to leave it a little chunkier, but you have to make sure all the garlic cloves are blended.

6. There’s an incredible variation in canned tomatoes, even the same brand, and I always add a little at the end.

So taste and see what you think is missing. Eight out of ten times, it’s acid, so add a little extra red wine vinegar. The other few times, it’s usually salt. Stir in a bit of salt at a time until the flavours round out. 

7. Ideally, you’ve got time to cool and refrigerate the sauce overnight, bringing it out of the fridge an hour before you’re assembling pizzas.

If not, you’ll still have a great time.

8. Save any extra sauce for garlic knots, pizza bread, tavern-style pizza, or whatever your heart desires.

Save any extra sauce for garlic knots, pizza bread, tavern-style pizza, or whatever your heart desires